Overview
Hà Giang is a province in northern Vietnam, bordering China. It's known for its forested limestone and granite mountains. The laid-back provincial capital, also called Hà Giang, sits on the Lô river. North of the capital, the Quan Ba Valley has green hills, roaring mountain creeks, and incredible waterfalls. The majority of the area is considered a UNESCO Global Geopark because it has the highest human diversity in the world. The purpose of its designation is to conserve ethnic group cultural identity diversity and transmission to future generations. The area is scattered with hill tribes and Hmong ethnic minority groups, each with their own language, culture, and agricultural practices. Tourists flock to the area to experience beautiful and wild scenery, as well as experience a more rural culture. In comparison to the bustling, beeping, and crowded Hanoi, Ha Giang is a welcome refuge for nature lovers.
Though there are plenty of bus tours that disrupt the narrow roadways, the most adventurous, and in my opinion, fun, way to experience Ha Giang is via motorbike. The winding roads, one nicknamed Snake Road, are easier to navigate via bike, and though they are in varying condition, the route is particularly special sans window. The total distance of the main loop is 350km or 217 miles, so you can complete it as fast as two days. Some people take months in the area. I was grateful to have four incredible days on the road with Ha Giang Adventures.
Day 1: Ha Giang to Mun Homestay/Quan Ba Valley
We began our trip with a five-and-a-half-hour bus drive from Hanoi to Ha Giang. Our group was seven Remotes and three others who joined for the weekend. We had a number of guides, some of who were “easy riders” - meaning they drove a passenger through the loop (this is what I did), and some were “spotters” - meaning they rode alongside solo riders.
A note about easy riders vs solo riding: I personally really enjoyed being on the back of a bike because I could completely space out and enjoy the scenery. I was also grateful to have an experienced driver when it was raining at night on mountain roads. Others preferred to be in control of the bike, especially in challenging conditions. When I go again (because I plan to!), I’ll drive myself, now that I know the varying road conditions I could encounter.
Once we arrived to Ha Giang, we packed up our bikes, got our helmets fitted and hit the road. I met my easyrider, Hoa (translated to “flower” in Vietnamese). We immediately connected on all things politics, family, travel and just enjoying each others’s company. In total, we were on the motorbikes for about three hours that day, and stopped at a few incredible viewpoints.
Fast forward just 10 short minutes, and we're in rural Vietnam. I was immediately in awe of how high people were nestled into the mountains. Growing up in the Midwest, where we grow corn in the plains, I was fascinated by the corn growing up on a mountain. I wondered about the trails farmers must take to harvest, and how they carried their tools and crops.
We had a hot cocoa break after an hour of being in the rain at Heaven’s Gate. This mountain viewpoint is one of the highest points on the road, and situated on a steep, switchback road. Unfortunately, we were complete socked in with thick fog, but, apparently, the boasts views across a lush valley with rice paddies.
We continued to move our way down the mountain, finally exiting the fog, and were greeted by spooky clouds and gray skies that gave the mountains a special shadow. The rain gave the forest a deeper and more vibrant green.
We arrived at Mun Homestay and settled into our modest rooms. Equipped with bug nets, the homestay’s electricity was temporarily out. It added a camping/cabin vibe to the evening as we navigated our surroundings with headlamps and flashlights. Dinner was ready shortly after our arrival, and it was the best food I had in Vietnam. Dishes of eggs, green beans with garlic, and apparently the pork was incredible (I’m a vegetarian). We dined in the dark, cramped around small tables and on tiny stools - conditions that made everything feel more authentic, and made us all feel closer (literally and figuratively).
Suddenly, Happy Water was served. Happy water is a rice wine. It is to Vietnam what Whisky is to Scotland or Moonshine is to Kentucky. It is a popular, 40%abv liquor, available all over Vietnam. Some happy water is made with just rice, or sometimes also corn, so it always tastes unique and different… sometimes not as good as the last batch. The electricity turned on, and so did the karaoke. I shared my talents with our group and another group of tourists, singing “My Heart Will Go On” by Celine Dion - a crowd favorite. Sleep came easy and early - the sun sets around 6:00pm in the valley.
Day 2: Quan Ba Valley to Meo Vac
We enjoyed a breakfast of eggs and crepes. We were on the road for a very long time, and had incredible views along the way. We stopped first to watch a traditional hemp linen weaver. Learning about the process made me appreciate the fabric even more. Our lunch stop was a homestay off the road. After an afternoon coffee stop in “Old Town”, Dong Van, we skipped the formal Chinese border viewpoint (Lung Cu Flag Tower) and instead went off-roading, following our guide from the Dong Van area to a special and secret viewpoint. This was, in my opinion, our most stunning view of the trip. From afar, you could see small Chinese villages butt up against a fence, built during Covid, rice fields cascading down the valley, and water falling down the mountain to the creek below. We took photos on a seemingly stable, but visually unstable, platform and I was terrified.
Onward, we stopped at Dinh Via Melo, Palace of the Hmong King in power of the territory before Ho Chi Minh’s reign. The king's wealth originated from opium sales. We learned about his multiple wives, which was culturally allowed because his first two wives did not have sons. This is a historical cultural practice we learned about at our movie night (just the week before).
Continuing the loop, we drove up Snake Road, and even on a locals-only “skywalk” road, we hiked up an unnamed rock for an even better view of the valley. It felt so nice to move my legs and activate some different muscles. We continued on our longest day toward Mi Peng Pass, the highest point on the loop. It was incredible to view the canyon below with the river running through it.
Once in Meo Vac, we stayed at a subpar hotel, Nhà nghi Thu Nu, which worked out fine since we spent most of the evening out at the night market. There was a stage where dancers and karaoke-ers performed. The group became my “agent” and got me on stage for night two of Celine Dion.
Day 3: Meo Vac to Du Gia
We woke early and headed straight to breakfast at a “western” spot where we had eggs and bread. From the restaurant, we walked through the market, a mixed market of goods, food, medicine, livestock and even kittens. It was absolute chaos, and we were being strongly pushed by locals with their baskets and lists. Back on the bikes, we headed downward to the river where we boarded a boat for a lovely ride on the Nho Que River. Limestone toward above us, covered in trees and we spotted monkeys swinging through the vines. I was fascinated by the farms along the river and felt grateful to see the farming process just a bit closer. The place reminded me of Zion National Park’s canyon and Ross Lake’s milky blouse.
Running later than expected, everyone was excited to get on the road. Unfortunately, we ended up having to stop for emergency construction. Apparently, the road or bridge we were meant to cross fell. Once it was safe to cross, we discovered that it was actually rockfall along the road. Hoa had me walk through the section because it was really bumpy and crowded. We saw a local man fall off of his bike, so I was grateful for her guidance.
This part of the trip had a lot of “bumpy roads”, so construction or underdeveloped roads. Unfortunately, we got hit with some rough weather along the way. My easy rider and I stopped in a small village to put on our rain gear - poncho and pants. She expertly navigated the rain and going slowly when it made sense. Overall, I was incredibly grateful for her during this rainstorm, on the bumpy road, and the sun setting. We caught up to the group just as the rain stopped and began our descent into the valley to a village called Du Gia (zu za).
Even though we arrived at our off-the-beaten-path homestay, To Day Homestay, at night, we were in love with its amenities, construction, and “vibes”, if you will. It was like staying in a big tree house, with beautiful trunks as columns and even a bean bag net to hang out in. Dinner was, once again, incredible, and featured a food I did not know I needed… French fries. They just really hit the spot! Happy water was served and was the best we had on the trip.
Day 4: Du Gia to Ha Giang
Waking up at To Day Homestay was breathtaking. I opened the shutters and was greeted by towering mountains, rice paddies and clouds suspended perfectly across the valley. After breakfast, we immediately hopped back on the bikes for an off-roading adventure to Du Gia waterfalls. I went into the pool of water for my morning shower and many people jumped from the top. It wasn’t in the cards for me that day, but I enjoyed watching and talking to the other folks who were just there to watch. I stepped away to dry off and take some alone time down the creek. It was so relaxing to just look at the mountains, hear the rushing creek, and truly enjoy where I was. I did not want the trip to end.
A few moments I want to remember from my time on the road:
To Day Homestay: the view, the food, the shower, the remoteness
All the Vietnamese children who ran from their homes to the road to either get high-fived as we passed by and the others who flicked us off with a laugh, knowing they were doing something bad
Tons of baby animals, from piglets and kittens, ducklings and chicks, buffalos and cows
Changing smells of deep forest, to fire, to sewage
Trees in every variety, vines hanging from the tops, sunflower fields, and corn growing on the mountain
Adult and children farmers walking bent over with piles of harvested elephant grass or corn stalks, walking alongside the road
We continued along the route back to Ha Giang, stopping along the road for sugar cane juice, views of the valley, and lunch. The easy rider group took a shortcut through the rice fields where we got to walk along the road, say hello to local farmers, and watch buffalo roll around the mud. I enjoyed the chance to watch the butterflies flutter around the flowers.
Once back in Ha Giang, Hoa invited me into her home and meet her daughter. We talked more about life and said our goodbyes. I couldn’t shake the feeling of sadness I had from our trip coming to an end, and I cannot wait to be back.
My favorite post so far! Your words have brought these photos to life.